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La Chanelphile

February 5, 2013

Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1932

*Guest Post written by Alexis Dayers*

chanel les exclusifs 1932

Chanel Master Perfumer Jacques Polge, the nose behind 95% of Chanel’s fragrances, introduced the latest scent from the Les Exclusifs collection – 1932. The scent was named after the year Gabrielle Chanel debuted her first high jewelry collection, Bijoux de Diamants, which featured a collection of brilliant stars, fringes, feathers, bows and striking comets.

coco chanel bijoux de diamants

The image above is a still from the original showcase at Mademoiselle Chanel’s apartment. She arranged the diamonds in a way that was unique and ahead of the time. The 2012 Comete piece below pays tribute to the 1932 original and it’s my favorite of the collection.

coco chanel 1932 star choker

As beautiful and striking as this collection was and is – I hardly think of showstopping diamonds when I smell the fragrance. As a matter of fact, I feel a calming comfort.

chanel spring 2013 couture forest

Notes:

Top: aldehydes, neroli, bergamot

Middle: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, lilac

Bottom: vetiver, orris root, incense, opoponax, courmarin, vanilla, ambrette, musk

Les Exclusifs de Chanel 1932 opens with a floral aldehyde, citrus and jasmine. At first whiff I’m not swept off my feet but it’s a Chanel and I’m prepared to ride out this fragrance journey. What I have learned since I became a fragrance enthusiast was to have patience. What you may not be wowed by in the first three minutes will turn into something great within ten to twenty minutes or vice-versa. What happens next is the rose note kicks in. The jasmine is still there but it’s lingering in the background, not to heady to give you a headache but just enough to linger like a good memory. There’s bits of spice from the carnation but it’s fleeting. My nose isn’t sensitive and trained enough to pick the ylang-ylang and lilac but it’s at this point where I am paying attention again.

I am pretty sure the people on the train wonder what is wrong with me again because I can’t stop smelling my wrist.

The drydown is what brings it home for me. The jasmine becomes faint but the rose is still going strong and now I get a bit of a honey, almond, sweet hay. The wood notes are almost creamy. The soft powdery musk hugs my skin. It’s feminine, warm and makes me feel downright beautiful. Close to an hour later, I’m enveloped in a deep resinous vanilla, powdery aldehydes, sweet musk and woods. I feel like I’m wrapped in cashmere, particularly the $1000 cashmere wrap I got to try on at the Chanel boutique and I almost cried when I had to give it back the sales associate, while wearing this scent.

The sillage is moderate and longevity is quite impressive – I can get almost five hours of wear time before I felt the need to reapply. Anything that lasts over three hours on me is a good thing.

This is offered in a 75ml bottle ($130/USD) and 200ml ($230/USD). Les Exclusifs de Chanel is an exclusive collection found at Chanel boutiques and some department stores (flagship Nordstrom store – Seattle, WA).

I only own one 75ml bottle (Bois des Iles) of an Exclusif and I am really considering saving up for a small bottle of 1932. Like I mentioned earlier, I wasn’t wowed initially but I will usually give a fragrance three tries before I give my sample or decant away. There’s a bit of familiarity – the bits of honey is reminiscent of another Les Exclusifs scent, Beige, which is a beautiful honeyed white floral. Rose and woods are favorite notes of mine so that help win my vote and I’m a sucker for a sweet, powdery clean musk drydown. It’s beautiful and perfect for the office, lunch with girlfriends and in my case, play dates at the playground. Added bonus – the simple square bottle design with the heavy magnetic cap can make even the most shoddy dressers look like a million bucks. It makes you feel feminine just like a great classic Chanel scent would.

chanel spring 2013 couture

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Fragrance — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 5:54 am

January 28, 2013

Archival Video Footage of Coco Chanel’s 1932 Diamond Exhibit

Discovered by the CHANEL Direction du Patrimoine in the Pathé-Gaumont cinematographic archives, this film presents the “Bijoux de Diamants” exhibit held from November 7th-19th, 1932 at Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment 29 Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris. Broadcasted before the feature movies in every French cinema, it was a prominent event in French news in November 1932.

I love seeing the archival footage of the original exhibit in Coco Chanel’s own home!

gabriellaLCsignature

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October 12, 2012

Chanel Fine Jewelry 1932 “Bijoux de Diamants” Anniversary Collection

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Photo from T Magazine

Earlier this week Chanel hosted a dinner to open the NYC exhibit of the 80th Anniversary of the Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants. I’ve been searching online to see as many pieces as possible and though I haven’t found all eighty, I have found some dazzling pieces that are exquisite. Taking inspiration from the things that inspired Coco Chanel, the collection features the sun, comets, feathers, fringes and ribbons/knots. The jewelry is mesmerizing and I’ve been looking at it all day and can look at it for days to come. I also came across some great videos including one featuring actual footage of the 1932 collection. The voice over is in French but there are some great shots in there. Enjoy!

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Photo from Vogue France

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Photo from Refinery 29

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Photo from Style

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants Anniversary Collection

Photo from Refinery 29


1932, naissance de Chanel Joaillerie by VOGUEPARIS

Photo Sources
Beauty Daily
Refinery 29
Vogue France
Style
T Magazine

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Jewelry — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 5:52 am

October 10, 2012

Chanel “Bijoux de Diamants” 80th Anniversary NYC Dinner

CHANEL FINE JEWELRY celebrates its 80th anniversary of the “Bijoux de Diamants” collection created by Gabrielle Chanel

Nora Zehetner

Last night Chanel celebrated the 80th Anniversary of the “ Bijoux de Diamants” collection, originally created by Gabrielle Chanel in 1932 with the presentation of 80 new High-Jewelry pieces at a dinner reception in NYC. The guests included Michael Avedon, Jen Brill, Rose Byrne, Alexa Chung, Prince Pierre d’Arenberg, Linda Evangelista, Blake Lively, Anh Duong, Elle Fanning, Frederic Fekkai, Diane Kruger, Leigh Lezark, Nemo Librizzi, Caroline Sieber, Mario Sorrenti & Mary Frey and Lindsey Wixson.

Entitled “1932”, this exceptional collection clearly displays the full scope of the creativity and know-how of High Jewelry at CHANEL. These 80 pieces draw their inspiration from motifs and symbols that colored Mademoiselle Chanel’s imagination. Their magical constellations of white, yellow and black diamonds, blue and pink sapphires and pearls project us into the very heart of a cosmic fantasy within a dream-like and timeless universe.

Comets, stars, suns, fringes, fountains, ribbons and feathers all form the stylistic vocabulary of CHANEL FINE JEWELRY. Today, there’s a new addition, the lion – that great protector – Mademoiselle Chanel’s favorite animal and her star sign Leo – she was born on August 19th.

Inspired and visionary, in the same manner as the original “Bijoux de Diamants” collection created 80 years ago, these new jewelry pieces strongly express the unique creative spirit that characterizes High Jewelry at CHANEL. The excellence and mastery of technique that each piece demands, enables CHANEL FINE JEWELRY to advance and push forward its taste for perfection and ultimate luxury.

Photos by Will Ragozzino and Joe Schildhorn courtesy of Chanel. CHANEL FINE JEWELRY celebrates its 80th anniversary of the “Bijoux de Diamants” collection created by Gabrielle Chanel. Everyone is wearing Chanel Fine Jewelry.

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July 18, 2012

1932 – Chanel 80th Anniversary Bijoux de Diamants Exhibition

chanel 1932 jewlery collection
Back in February I mentioned that Chanel was celebrating the 80th anniversary of Coco Chanel’s only fine jewelry collection created in 1932 called the Bijoux de Diamants collection. To commemorate the anniversary, Chanel has designed a collection of fine jewelry inspired by Coco Chanel’s jewelry designs featuring five themes that were Coco’s signatures: the sun, comets, feathers, fringes and ribbons/knots. The designers added a sixth theme – the lion – because Coco Chanel was a Leo and surrounded herself with portrayals of lions. The collection is now on display in an exhibit called simply “1932″.

chanel 1932 jewlery collection

Only one piece remains from Coco Chanel’s original 1932 collection – a comet brooch – and the brooch is on display at the 1932 exhibit. The exhibit is on display at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris starting September 14 – 23, 2012. The exhibit will travel to New York in October and to Tokyo in November. I hope that I can make the New York exhibit! You can see a bit of the exhibit in the video below.

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Culture,Chanel Jewelry — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 4:40 am

February 10, 2012

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012 – 80th Anniversary Collection

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012 Chanel Cosmos watch open

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012 Chanel Cosmos watch open

Last month I posted about Chanel Joaillerie’s Spring 2012 collection which pays homage to the 80th Anniversary of Coco Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection.  I happened to find more images online and each of these pieces is breathtakingly beautiful.  I have never before seen such exquisite jewels.  Each piece in the collection is one of a kind and is set to tour the world in a traveling exhibition.  I hope the exhibition comes to a city in the U.S – I would love to see these pieces up close and personal.

Source

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Jewelry — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 4:01 am

January 24, 2012

Chanel Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2012 Presentation Video

Earlier today I reviewed the Chanel Joaillerie collection which pays homage to Coco Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection that was inspired by celestial bodies. Later on, I reviewed the spring-summer 2012 haute couture collection that simulated a commercial space shuttle but it wasn’t until I saw the actual presentation video below that I saw the connection.

This is purely my own hypothesis, but I’m betting that Karl Lagerfeld is paying homage to Coco Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection through haute couture fashion. It’s just a hunch but must me more than coincidence, no?

The video below also gives us some much needed close-ups of the hair pieces and the nail polish which looks like a shimmery powder/sky blue.

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Filed under: Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , — La Chanelphile @ 11:49 pm

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012 Open Necklace with Shooting Star Brooch

Chanel presented its Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012 collection – the haute couture of fine jewelry.  What set this presentation apart was that it celebrates the 80th anniversary of Coco Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection. In homage to Coco Chanel’s original 1932 collections, Chanel displayed nine celestial-inspired pieces – a preview of what we can expect to see at the July presentation that will honor the 80th anniversary.  Coco Chanel was intrigued by astrology so taking inspiration from the cosmos was a natural progression for her.  These pieces are literally “out of this world.”

Sources: WWD and Coco Chanel by Justine Picardie

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012

Chanel Joaillerie Spring 2012 3-D Celeste Brooch

Coco Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection

Coco Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants scanned from Justine Picardie's "Coco Chanel" p. 218

Coco Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection

Coco Chanel 1932 Bijoux de Diamants collection scanned from Justine Picardie's "Coco Chanel" p. 221

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Jewelry — Tags: , , — La Chanelphile @ 2:04 pm

January 19, 2011

Culture Chanel Exhibit at Shanghai’s MOCA

“The story of Chanel is really a story of emotions, of images and words. It is not just a history of fashion. It is more a history of feminine behavior. It is a social history by itself.”

-Jean-Louis Froment, Curator Culture Chanel

Back in October we learned that the Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art was hosting Culture Chanel an exhibit featuring items from the life of Chanel and that illustrate her relationship with the arts.  With over 400 items, curator Jean-Louis Froment brings us into Chanel’s world as she saw it and places her designs in the larger context of other artistic movements such as painting, music, dance and writing.  The exhibit also shows some of the seeds of Mlle. Chanel’s inspiration and shows how mere thoughts and experiences shaped her designs.

Wallpaper* Magazine and WWD had coverage of the event and the images that follow are republished from those sites. This exhibit is a once in a lifetime event: It’s a chronology – culturally and socially – of the influences and designs of Coco Chanel. The exhibit runs through March 14, and I truly hope that it comes to the U.S. I NEED to see this exhibit first hand! Until then, the images below will have to suffice…

**UPDATE 1.23.11 – Culture Chanel has its own site you can visit it here.

Sources:  WWD & Wallpaper*

Curator Jean-Louis Froment; Chanel No.5

French actress and Chanel brand ambassador Anna Mouglalis. She also played Coco Chanel in "Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky"

Pablo Picasso display and ink drawing

A photo of Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in front of one of her many coromandel screens in 1959. Chanel collected coromandel screens but never went to China.

Origin Section of the Exhibit: This part of the exhibit focuses on Chanel's childhood where she spent some time in an orphanage run by nuns in Aubazine.

From left: Original 'Cométe' brooch, created by Gabrielle Chanel for her exhibition 'Bijoux de Diamants', 1932, © Photo Didier Roy Pen and ink image taken from pavement of the abbey of Aubazine, the orphanage where Gabrielle Chanel lived, 1996, © Alexandre Céalac 1965 - 1980 Haute Couture collection, © Photo Olivier Saillant

From left: Half-Length portrait of Catherine de' Medici, by Francois Clouet, 16th century, © RMN (Domaine de Chantilly) / René-Gabriel Ojéda Gabrielle Chanel with a white collaret by George Hoyningen-Huene, 1939, © Horst Carmen Kass wearing an outfit from Chanel's 2009 Autumn/Winter ready-to-Wear collection, by Dusan Reljin, © Dusan Reljin

From Left: Costume design for Potiphar's wife in 'Joseph's Legend' by Léon Bakst, 1914, © Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, Theater and Dance Collection, don de Madame Adolph B. Spreckels Gabrielle Chanel in front of the Coromandel screens of her apartment at 31 rue Cambon, Paris by Boris Lipnitzki, 1937, © Lipnitzki/Roger-Viollet The ‘Coromandel’ coat by Karl Lagerfeld for the 1996 Autumn/Winter Chanel Haute Couture collection, © Photo Karl Lagerfeld

From Left: Portrait of Gabrielle Chanel with her dog, Gigot, at her villa ‘La Pausa’, in Roquebrune, France, circa 1930, from Collection Chanel, Paris, © D.R 'Acrobats' by Pablo Picasso, 1905, © Collection Marina Picasso/Courtesy Galerie Jan Krugier & Cie, Genève (Suisse)/Succession, Picasso 2010 Barbara Palvin wearing an outfit from CHANEL’s 2010 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection by Martin Lidell, © D.R

Chanel Iconography - The Camelia: From Left: Marcel Proust in the garden of Reynaldo Hahn, Photographe Inconnu, 1905, © Snark/Art Resource, NY ‘The Lady of the Camellias’ printed book, Alexandre Dumas Fils, 1858, © Musée de la Dame aux Camélias Amber Valletta wearing an outfit from Chanel’s 1995 Autumn/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection, © Photo Peter Lindbergh

Chanel Iconography - The Wheat Shaft: From Left: Gabrielle Chanel leaning against a fireplace in her apartment, photo by Cecil Beaton, 1965, © Beaton/Vogue/Condé Nast Archive Ear of Wheat by Salvador Dali, 1947, © Salvador Dali, Fondation Gala-Salvador Dali, ADAGP, Paris 2010 Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel’s 2010 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection, © Photo Karl Lagerfeld/Chanel

Chanel Iconography - The Number 5: From Left: Cover project for the exhibition catalogue of 1921 by Alexander Rodchenko, © A. Rodchenko & V. Stepanova archive/ADAGP Paris 2010 Bottle of Chanel N°5 perfume, from Collection Chanel, Paris, © Photo Didier Roy ‘The Five Fingers’ musical score by Igor Stravinsky, 1921, from Collection Chanel, Paris, © Copyright 1922 Chester Music Ltd worldwide

From Left: Vogue Paris, 1 November 1926, © Courtesy Vogue Paris 'Figure' by Pablo Picasso, Avignon, © Marina Picasso Collection, courtesy Galerie Jan Krugier & Cie, Geneva / Succession Picasso 2010 Honor Fraser wearing a dress from Chanel’s 1996 Autumn/Winter Ready-to-Wear collection, © photo by Gilles Bensimon

The influcence of the nuns of Aubazine. From Left: Head of ‘La Bernardine’, 15th/16th century sculpture, © Région Limousin. Service de l’Inventaire et du Patrimoine Culturel/Philippe Rivière. Ville de Brive-la-Gaillarde – Musée Labenche d’art et d’histoire Bianca Balti wearing an outfit from Chanel’s 2010 Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collection, © Photo Camilla Åkrans Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, 1990 Autumn/Winter Haute Couture collection, © Photo Olivier Saillant

Haute Couture Chanel dress designed by Karl Lagerfeld for the 1990 Fall/Winter Collection. This dress appears to have been inspired by Chanel's love of coromandel screens.

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Filed under: Chanel — Tags: , , , , — La Chanelphile @ 10:54 pm