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La Chanelphile

January 25, 2011

Chanel Haute Couture Spring 2011 Inspiration: Paintings of Marie Laurencin

WWD reported that Karl Lagerfeld was inspired by the paintings of Marie Laurencin, namely the portrait she did of Mademoiselle Chanel, for the Spring 2011 Haute Couture collection.  The portrait of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel hangs in the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris and they have an interesting anecdote posted on their site:

In 1923 Laurencin was working on the costumes and sets for Les Biches (The Does) performed by Serge Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. Coco Chanel, who was creating costumes for the same company’s Le Train Bleu at the time, asked the artist to paint her portrait. Laurencin painted Chanel in a languid pose draped in blue and black with one shoulder bare. The fluid lines, subtly shifting colours and the sitter’s dreamy expression are typical of Laurencin’s work, but Chanel – designer of ‘the little black dress’ and the Chanel suit – turned the painting down, saying it did not look like her.

Marie Laurencin Portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel, 1923 Oil on canvas

Laurencin was part of the Cubist circle and was one of the few women who were part of the movement but also put her own spin on it. Her use of pastel colors and fluid curvey lines differentiated her from other Cubist painters. She painted mostly women and her style suited this subject perfectly. These are some other examples of Marie Laurencin’s work. You can see her use of pastels and how Karl was inspired by her pinks and greys and transformed these hints of color into an airy, light collection perfect for spring. Review of the collection to come shortly!

Marie Laurencin LA VIE AU CHATEAU Oil on Canvas 1925

Marie Laurencin Il Bacio 1927

Marie Laurencin Femme Au Chien

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Chanel Haute Couture Preview


Hilary Alexander of the Telegraph sat down to chat with Karl Lagerfeld in his studio just days before the Haute Couture show (tomorrow!). In the interview, Karl charms us as is his way, and he tells us what he’s into: books on the origin of language, pretentious intellectual pursuits and Anna Calvi. Even better than hearing Uncle Karl wax poetic on luxury, is getting glimpses of the collection itself. I love the black chokers – so simple and chic! And those very simple, very flat, very pointy ballet flats need to be on my feet this spring!

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Filed under: Chanel,Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , , , , — La Chanelphile @ 12:07 am

July 14, 2010

Peter Philips on the Fall/Winter 2010-2011 Haute Couture Red Lip

chanel fall/winter 2010-2011 haute couture beauty
The Chanel Fall/Winter 2010 Haute Couture show featured very simple makeup with a striking red lip. This is the look Coco Chanel herself preferred so it should come as no surprise that it showed on on the runway. Also, Chanel recently released its Rouge Coco line of lipsticks in their attempt to “bring lipstick back” and what better way than to feature it on the runway? See the Global Creative Director for Chanel talk about what inspired the faces on the runway…

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July 12, 2010

Chanel Fall/Winter 2010-2011 Haute Couture Show Soundtrack

Music is a big part of creating ambiance and I love the tunes at Chanel because I’m always introduced to something new.  Here are the tunes that filled the air of the Grand Palais in Paris:

Timothy Andres
“Antennae”, Shy and Mighty
Nonesuch Records 2010

Timothy Andres – Antennae

Found at Antennae on Duck.fm

Lou Reed and John Cale
“Small Town”, Songs For Drella
Sire/Warner Records 1990

Chilly Gonzales
“Never Stop (Piano-Pella)”
Phantasy Sound Limited 2010

Gonzales
“Knight Moves”, Ivory Tower

Arts & Crafts 2010

Image from Chanel News

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July 8, 2010

“I Am Chanel, Hear Me Roar”

Chanel 2010-2011 Fall/Winter Haute Couture

I didn’t think that Karl could outdo a giant glacier as the centerpiece for a runway show – but somehow he did.  On Tuesday, Chanel unveiled its Fall/Winter 2010-2011 Haute Couture show at the Grand Palais in Paris with an “8-ton, 40-foot-tall golden lion, [with] its paw perched on an enormous pearl” serving as the backdrop.  (WWD).

The inspiration for the lion is clear – born on August 19th, Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel was a Leo.  She loved lions and they surfaced everywhere from her apartment decor, buttons and even her gravestone.  The centerpiece for the haute couture runway show is a replica of a marble sculpture from her infamous apartment at 31 Rue Cambon. “Gabrielle Chanel surrounded herself with models of lions in wood, silver, bronze or alabaster…[and t]he lion became a timeless biographical seal on numerous of her creations.” (Chanel News).

Chanel herself, felt a close affinity with lions: “August 19th is my birthday. I was born under the sign of Leo. I am a Leo and, like a lion, I use my claws to prevent people from doing me harm, but, believe me, I suffer more from scratching than from being scratched.”

The lion inspired some of her creations and lion heads were commonly found embossed on the buttons of her iconic tweed suits.

Indeed, Mlle. Chanel’s love for lions are eternal – her gravestone has 5 lion heads carved onto it.

Not only is Karl Lagerfeld an ingenious designer, he truly respects and understands the woman that Coco Chanel was. He stays true to what inspired her and he gives it all a modern twist. Of course, he is one of the few people in the world who has access to her apartments and archives (what I would do to be a fly on the wall!). I hope that his successor will have the same respect for Chanel’s vision.

Chanel 2010-2011 Fall/Winter Haute Couture

Chanel 2010-2011 Fall/Winter Haute Couture

Chanel 2010-2011 Fall/Winter Haute Couture

Image Credits:

Runway show & apartment images: Chanel News

Chanel Button: Chanel: Collections & Creations

Chanel Gravestone: Ballyshannon

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January 27, 2010

Chanel Spring 2010 Haute Couture – Runway Video

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Filed under: Chanel Haute Couture — Tags: , , , , — La Chanelphile @ 1:38 pm
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